Which Hair Type Am I

Knowing your hair type can be useful in understanding the kind of natural hair products that you should be using. Although, categorizing hair does not provide a comprehensive solution to hair care, it can definitely assist in a better coming up with a hair care regime that suits your natural curls.

Andre Walker hair types

Andre Walker system of hair types is one of the easiest hair typing systems. Types 3 and 4, which are further divided into a, b and c best describe the Afro-American hair.

• Type 3a – Loose curls - Voluminous thick hair that make an ‘S’ shaped pattern. This hair type has the tendency to be frizzy due to the fineness of the hair strands.
• Type 3b – Medium curls – This hair type has a medium amount of curls is very bouncy.
• Type 3c – Tight curls – This hair type is defined by spirals with either tight curls or kinky hair. A large number of hair strands, tightly packed together make for this type of hair.
• Type 4a – Kinky soft – This hair type has a well defined curl pattern due to the tightly coiled hair. It is also very sensitive and fragile.
• Type 4b – Kinky wiry – This hair type makes a ‘Z’ shaped pattern and is tightly coiled. It is also very sensitive and fragile.
• Type 4c – Kinky zingy – This hair type is almost the same as Type 4b with the only difference that the hair strands are even more tightly coiled.

Both 3c and 4c are not defined by the Andre Walker system, but have been included in this hair typing for the benefit of women who find that their hair falls in none of the mentioned categories. It is possible to have a combination hair type with some of your hair being of one quality and some of the other.

To best understand your hair type, analyze it only after washing your hair properly with shampoo and allowing it to dry naturally without any application of products, including conditioners.

Whatever hair type you may have, every kind of Afro-American hair is dry as well as sensitive, and requires a lot of moisturization in addition to gentle care. The key to African American hair care is not being hard on your hair.

There are a lot of products available in the market for defining natural curls. You can choose the one that suits your hair type the best. Understanding your hair type and embracing it is yet another way to celebrate your curls.  

The Truth Behind Hair Breakage

Hair breakage is a serious problem that needs to be dealt with to maintain the length of your hair. Not only that, hair breakage is an indicator of other factors like wrong products, erratic lifestyle, damaged hair and other issues that can cause stress.

If your hair breaks often, it may feel like your hair is not growing at all. It can also lead to a loss of hair volume over a period of time.

Reasons for hair breakage

• Holding on to your split ends can be causing hair breakage. A lot of women avoid getting their split ends chopped off to retain length, but these slowly travel upwards along the hair shaft and make the hair weak, leading to breakage. Trim your hair at least once in a couple of months to get rid of unhealthy hair.
• Using petroleum jelly and grease can actually be harmful for hair, contrary to the popular belief. This is because these agents work as sealants that do not let your hair strand and scalp absorb moisture, leading to dryness and hence breakage.
• Using products that contain alcohol can cause hair breakage. This is true for products that contain bad alcohols like ethyl and Specially Denatured Alcohol (SDA). These alcohols dry out the hair and make it brittle.
• Sleeping on cotton pillowcases, especially if your hair is already damaged can also lead to hair breakage. Cotton is an excellent absorbent and can suck out all the moisture from the hair.
• Not conditioning your hair enough can also cause hair breakage. Conditioners, especially deep conditioners help in strengthening and moisturizing your hair, significantly reducing breakage. Conditioning should be the first step towards salvaging dry hair as well.
• Styling hair with direct heat very often can be very damaging to your hair. It can make all the moisture evaporate from your hair and make it excessively dry as well as brittle. It is very difficult to reverse the damage done to hair by heat, which in most cases leads to hair breakage.
• Chemical treatments like relaxers and perms also cause hair breakage. Afro-American hair is inherently dry as well as weak and chemical treatments just further make your hair vulnerable.
• Tying your hair too tightly or using the wrong kind of scrunchies and clips can put strain on your hair as well as scalp, leading to breakage.

Wet hair is very vulnerable to breakage. Avoid using a hairbrush just after shampooing your hair. Small things can have a big impact on your hair and lead to hair breakage, so be careful with the products you use for your African American hair care.

How To Style Your Precious Curls

One of the best ways to enjoy and celebrate having natural Afro-American hair is to treat your gorgeous curls to a different style once in a while. Not only will it make you feel beautiful, but also make your hair look different without having to resort to any chemical measures.

One of the best things about black curls is the visible volume with which you can work. Many women who would do anything to get hair volume like that of Afro-American women, and if you have it, why not flaunt it!

Styling pre-requisites to enhance your curls

• Use a shampoo that is specifically made for black hair and helps you define your curls.
• Moisturize hair on a regular basis to eliminate frizz and make your curls shine.
• Allow your hair to air dry whenever possible as it will help your curls to take their natural shape.
• Sleep on satin pillow covers to protect the definition of your curls and to keep them frizz-free.
• Try to use only curly hair products or natural hair care products for African American hair.

Hairstyles

• For mid length to long hair - Shampoo and condition your hair and allow it to air dry completely. Apply some styling product to the hair and part it at the center. Smoothen the hair on the top of the head and clip it near the ears on both sides. Apply some setting product if required. This style looks elegant and at the same time lets your curls do the talking.

• For short kinky curls - Start with dividing the hair into two horizontal sections. The section on the top of the head should be narrower than the section at the back. Secure the hair on the top section to get it out of the way. Now divide the section at the back into two vertical sections and secure one of them. Start twisting all the hair in the section upwards, moving it slowly. Once at the top, secure with pins. Repeat for the other section. Tuck in and roll all the loose ends at the top for a neat look. Now start twisting the hair at the top downwards and secure with pins. You might have to repeat for hair at the sides if they are shorter than the hair in the middle.

There are many cornbraids, flat twists and other hairstyles that you can sport with natural curls that are strong and full of volume. Do not allow anyone to stop you from experimenting. You may come up with your very own hairstyle!  

Itchy Scalp – What am I Doing Wrong?

Itchy scalp can be very irritating and frustrating, just like a common cold. It can completely drain you out mentally besides taking away you energy to focus on other things. Not to forget the embarrassment of being caught scratching your scalp!

Reasons for an itchy scalp

There are many reasons that can lead to an itchy scalp and some can be as simple as a faulty hair care routine. Here is a look at some of the most common causes for an itchy scalp:

• Dry scalp
• Dandruff
• Allergic reaction
• Head lice
• Sunburn
• Dehydration
• Accumulation of oils and grime in the hair

Tips to follow

These factors can easily be countered with the following tips and you can go back to an itch free scalp in no time at all:

• Dry scalp can cause itching and usually manifests itself as fine white flakes of the scalp’s skin. Moisturizing and deep conditioning of the hair and scalp can easily take care of this problem. It is important to remember that shampooing is good but not excessively. Shampoos wash off the natural oils from the scalp, leading to dryness. Always follow shampooing with conditioning. Treat your hair with hot oil massages once or twice a week to counter excessive dryness and itching of the scalp.

• Dandruff manifests as waxy and flaky substances. Use a good anti-dandruff shampoo besides applying ant-bacterial lotions and oils to counter dandruff. Dandruff not only causes an itchy scalp but if left untreated can lead to hair fall and breakage. 

• Certain products like shampoos, lotions and deep conditioners may cause allergic reactions. This is completely subjective. If the itching starts immediately after applying a particular product, it is best to discontinue it at once. You could try using natural conditioners and other hair care products. The itching should stop hereafter, but if it does not then the reason may be something else. 

• It is better to check your hair and scalp for head lice, which also cause itching. There are many good anti-lice lotions and shampoos that are available in the market that can be used to get rid of them. Using a lice comb to remove dead lice after the treatment may also be necessary. 

• Sometimes itchiness and dryness can be simply because you are dehydrated. Drink lots of water and keep hydrating the hair as well. 

• Sometimes styling hair in hair dos that expose a lot of the scalp can lead to sunburn, that in turn can result in an itchy scalp. Soothe your scalp with cooling and moisturizing hair masks and change the hair style that you are currently sporting. 

• Not shampooing your hair at least once or twice a month can lead to the build up of oils and grime in the hair, often causing itching. Cleansing the hair and scalp is a very important part of the hair care routine and makes sure that both the scalp and the hair remains healthy and clean.

If the itchiness still persists, it is best to consult a medical practitioner to get to the root of the issue.  

How to Cope With Hair Breakage?

Afro-American hair is one of the weakest kinds of hair due to its unique molecular structure. It is also inherently weak and dry and calls for particular care to cope with hair breakage. Not only does hair breakage reduce the volume of hair and prevents women from maintaining their length, it also points at issues like lack of moisture, nutrients and damaged hair.

Hair care tips

Here is a look at hair care tips that will help you cope with hair breakage:

• Stop chemical use – The use of chemicals through relaxers, products, or even smoothening products can make you hair weaker. The chemicals coat your hair strands and scalp, making it difficult for moisturizers and nutrients to penetrate deep into the cuticles. Avoiding the use of chemicals and using natural hair conditioners will gradually strengthen your hair and reduce hair fall.

  
  
• Reduce direct heat styling – Styling hair with aids like flat irons and blow dryers on a regular basis, makes the hair go very dry. All the moisture in the hair gets evaporated or burned due to the dry heat, making the hair weaker. It is best to avoid the use of such aids if you are experiencing hair fall and breakage.

  
  
• Wash your hair regularly – Washing hair with a mild shampoo with no sulfates and a deep conditioner is good for the hair. It helps remove the dirt, grime and accumulated grease from the hair, which in turn unclogs the pores. This helps your scalp absorb moisturizing treatments, leading to reduction in hair breakage. Washing hair once a week is good enough. Over washing and shampooing of hair can lead to dryness.

  
  
• Regular moisturizing treatments – Afro-American needs a lot of moisture, being naturally dry. Make sure that you incorporate moisturizing masks and deep conditioning treatments in your hair care routine. Always follow shampooing with moisturizing. Not only does moisturizing help manage hair breakage; it also makes the hair healthier and glossier.

  
  
• Let you hair be – Excessive styling of the hair in hair dos that pull at your hair and cause stress can also lead to breakage. Styles that help you manage your hair without much manipulation is the way to go to reduce hair breakage. This also includes proper detangling of your hair. Use wide toothed combs and always detangle from the tips of the hair to the roots.

It is best to consult a dermatologist if the hair fall persists. It may be an indication of some other problem. Deep conditioning with hot oils has proven beneficial in most circumstances.  

Steaming Natural Hair: Five Reasons Why You Should Make it a Part of Your Hair Regime

Steaming is one of the best things that you can treat your hair to. Steaming is a process that exposes your hair and scalp to moist heat and is very different from dry heat from blow dryers. It creates a warm and moist atmosphere that is conducive for the opening of the pores on the scalp and hair strands, boosting the absorption of moisture. Good moisture content in the hair and scalp is the secret to good hair and lustrous tresses and steaming is the way to achieve it.

Steaming your hair once a week is enough, and works wonders especially after a hot oil deep conditioning treatment or just before your shampoo and conditioning routine. Here are five reasons for making steaming a regular hair care routine:

1. One of the easiest ways to add moisture to your hair – Women usually use deep conditioners or change hair styles to make their hair look and feel fresh and healthy. Overdoing this is not good for the hair in addition to being time consuming. Steaming mid-week or just when the natural elements like sun, dust and wind have gotten to it is the easiest way to add moisture to your hair. It sometimes even works better than a natural hair conditioner spray to freshen up your hair.

   
   
2. To boost elasticity and strength to your hair – Hair is balanced and healthy when there is has adequate hydration and moisture. This prevents hair strands from becoming brittle and hence reduces breakage. Steaming is one of the best things to prevent breakage at the demarcation line for women who are transitioning to natural hair.
3. Good curl definition – Afro-American women are learning to celebrate their natural curls. The key to great curl definition and bounce is moisture that can easily be added through steaming. It provides the hair with just the right amount of moisture that does not make the hair look limp or flat.

   
   
4. Better product and oil absorption – Since steam gently lifts the cuticles of the hair while opening the pores of the scalp, it is one of the best ways to enhance absorption of moisturizing products and oil. All you have to do is steam your scalp and hair after the application of the moisturizing agent.

   
   
5. Increased hair growth – Steaming increases blood circulation in the scalp, which in turn maximizes hair growth.

You do not necessarily need a steamer to steam your hair. The same effect can be achieved by wrapping you head in a warm wet towel.  

Deep Conditioning: An Essential Part of Black Hair Care

Deep conditioning is a sure shot way of introducing moisture and bounce to your hair. As the name suggests, deep conditioning is different from just conditioning, which is achieved just through the application of a conditioner after each shampoo wash. Deep conditioning requires the use of completely different products in addition to more leave in time and sometimes the use of heat.

Deep conditioning is essential for Afro-American hair, which is inherently dry and weak. Hydration with the help of deep conditioning can make a difference to your hair in the following ways and prove its necessity in your hair care regime:

• Improve elasticity of hair
• Make your hair more manageable
• Reduces knots and tangles in the hair making it combing friendly
• Significantly reduces the porosity in the hair strands
• Reduces the occurrence of frizz
• Add weight and bounce to your hair
• Make your hair appear healthy and glossy
• Significantly increases the softness of your hair

Deep conditioning conditioners

The products that you use for your deep conditioning treatment would completely depend on the kind of hair you have including its texture as well as nature. For hair that is light and limp, a conditioner that adds volume, bounce and weight to the hair is required. For hair that is damaged due to chemical use or extreme exposure to sun and other elements needs a conditioner with protein for hair reconstruction.

Just applying the conditioner on your hair is not enough for the proper absorption of the nutrients, water and other ingredients of the product. To achieve this, it is important that the product has a high pH content and that you apply it leave it on for at least 30 minutes. You can choose to add heat for maximum absorption by sitting under a hooded dryer or by simply using a heat cap. Some women also make use of just a plastic cap or a shower cap and leave the product on for a longer time.

Frequency of deep conditioning

Deep conditioning can be done quite frequently to manage and hydrate your hair. The exact number of times in a week or a month strictly depends on the condition of the hair. Damaged and weak hair may require more sessions of deep conditioning. It is important to remember that moisturizing deep conditioners can be used frequently but not the protein varieties, which have to be used more sparingly.

Trying to incorporate a deep conditioning routine to your hair care will prove to be very rewarding and chances are that you will fall in love with your tresses all over again.

Scalp Exfoliation - Are You Doing It Right

It is not just your face or body that is exposed to sunlight, pollution, dust and grime, but also your scalp. Proper hair care routines repair your hair strands while keeping your  scalp healthy. It is important to keep your scalp clean and hydrated for better-looking hair.

This can be achieved with the help of scalp exfoliation. Some of the benefits of hair exfoliation include:

• You can get rid of dead skin, chemical build-up, product build-up and grease build-up from the scalp. 
• Scalp exfoliation, just like exfoliation in any other part of the body  enhances absorption of nutrients and water from the products or deep hair conditioners that you use. 
• The circular motions during scalp exfoliation can boost blood circulation and enhance hair growth.
• It helps in treating both dry scalp and dandruff. 

How to exfoliate your scalp?

Scalp exfoliation is quite a simple process. All you need to do is:

• Take an adequate amount of any natural grainy substance like sea salt, brown sugar or coffee ground that does not dissolve easily. 
• Mix one of your favorite oils in it. Some of the best oil options include almond oil, coconut oil, olive oil, and jojoba oil. 
• Divide your hair in four to six segments and apply the mixture in a circular motion.  
• After you have covered all parts of the scalp, follow it up with your regular shampoo and deep hair conditioner. 

Are you doing it right?

Although scalp exfoliation is a very good hair care habit, there are certain things that you need to stop doing to get it right. Some of them are:

• Do not overdo the exfoliation. Once in a week or two weeks is good enough. Overdoing it may irritate the skin and hair strands, while drying out your scalp.
• Do not use regular salt as an exfoliating agent. It dissolves almost immediately and will not give you the same results. 
• Do not rub the scalp very vigorously or with too much force. 
• Consult a professional if you have excessively dry scalp or a stubborn dandruff problem. If the dandruff seems to be mild, you can add a few drops of tea tree oil or peppermint oil in your exfoliating mixture. They have anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. 

Keeping these things in mind, you can easily exfoliate your scalp  at home without spending much of your money or time!