Finding the Balance Between Moisture and Protein

You work hard to grow and care for your natural hair. Nothing is more frustrating than breakage. There are several possible underlying causes for it. Two possibilities are either too much moisture (over-conditioning) or too much protein (protein overload).

The hair is made mostly of keratin—a protein. So it requires some protein to stay strong and healthy. Hair that has been chemically altered by relaxers and hair color particularly needs protein to rebuild its structure.But when the hair gets too much protein it goes into overload. The hair becomes stiff and brittle, feels like hay to the touch, and breaks easily.

Water (moisture) nourishes the hair and boosts its elasticity—the ability to stretch, then return to its original form. If the hair lacks moisture, it gets dry and breaks in response to daily styling and manipulation.When it becomes over-moisturized it will feel limp and weak, and too stretchy or too soft—especially when wet. This also leads to breakage if cared for improperly.

Determine the Needs of Your Hair

How can you determine whether your breakage is due to protein overload or over-moisturizing? The signs listed above are a good start. Next, do a quick strand test.

Take a few strands of shed hair. Grip one end of the hairs with the forefinger and thumb of one hand. Then grasp the other end with the fingertips of the other hand. Give it a tug.

·         If the hair stretches, but then returns to its normal state, there is a good moisture/protein balance. 

·         If the hair stretches, but doesn't snap back to its normal state, the hair is over-moisturized and in need of protein.

·         If the hair snaps while being stretched, there is a protein overload and moisture is needed.

The test can be performed on wet or dry hair, but wet hair is more flexible than dry hair.

Treating Over-Moisturized Hair

Honey & Horsetail Reconstructor

If the hair is too elastic, you can see improvement in a single protein treatment. Try a product like Honey and Horsetail Reconstructor. The protein treatment strengthens weakened hair, but leaves it feeling hard. So follow the treatment with a moisturizing conditioner. Protein treatments should only be done every six to eight weeks.

 Caring for Hair with Protein Overload

There is no quick remedy to fixing protein overload. You’ll need to develop an ongoing plan to nurture your hair back to health.

·         Check your current moisturizers, gels, and conditioners to see if they have protein in them. Look for terms like keratin, hydrolyzed, collagen, or amino acids—especially when these terms are among the first five ingredients in the product. Set them aside for now.

Honey Bee Sweet Scalp Exfoliator

·         Clarify hair with a shampoo like Honey Bee Sweet Scalp Exfoliator or use your regular shampoo and follow with an apple cider vinegar rinse. Mix 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar with 1 cup of warm, filtered water. Rinse your hair with the mixture after shampooing.

Coconut Papaya Hair Paste

·         Deep condition hair once or twice a week with a creamy deep conditioner like Coconut Papaya Hair Paste.

Coconut Hair Milk

·         Incorporate a hydrating, water-based moisturizer, like Coconut Hair Milk, into your daily routine.

·         Consider getting your hair steamed. Steaming opens the cuticles and allows moisture to be absorbed deep within the hair’s cortex.

Both moisture and protein are needed for healthy hair. Finding the right balance is the key to healthy, shiny, soft curls. Once your hair is in perfect balance, do a periodic strand check to maintain that balance by making adjustments as needed.